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| Time Travel – Nan Luo Gu Xiang Written by Suryanto Gobeawan on June 7, 2008.
“The hutong also offers a feast for the eye for the discerning shoppers. The lane is intertwined with small shops selling a wide range of products, from handicrafts to clothes and accessories."
Decked in ancient style Hutongs (narrow street alleys lined with traditional courtyard residences), Nan Luo Gu Xiang – 南 锣 鼓 巷 had been transformed into yet another hip street, featuring many cafés, restaurants, and pubs. The street was a mesmerizing blend of contemporary style with the past.
With a history of more than 700 years, Nan Luo Gu Xiang is one of the capital's oldest hutongs and has been one of Beijing's 25 cultural and historical protection areas since 1990.
Unlike the streets of Hou Hai, bars and cafés at Nan Luo Gu Xiang are quieter, providing less-expensive food and drink. Most of them are decorated in a traditional Chinese style that matches well with their surroundings. Some make good use of the courtyards to create a comfortable and lively atmosphere. On a more distinctive contrast, Hou Hai is a much more commercialised tourist attraction, as compared to Nan Luo Gu Xiang, which is deemed as the escapade haven for local and foreign youths alike.
From the North gate (南 门), the very first pub at the corner is Cai Xiang Gong He. The pub sets a classy standard for a nightlife chill out spot. You won’t find Long Island here served in two tones, unmixed. Instead, what shoots their Long Island to fame was the way the tea and liquor pre-blended on ice before serving in a tall glass. According to the pub owner and the interior designer, Ms. Lu, the bar aims to refresh executives from their long day at work, with emphasis on the simple, cozy, and comfortable yet stylistic design of the place. When you are there, don’t forget to try their baked potatoes and Zaixiang Special (signature home made style Italian pizza), priced at 58RMB.
As I strolled further into the alley, Dian Dian Lang (点 点 廊) handicraft shop caught me by surprise. I was taken aback by the intricate and delicate work of Mr. Ren Zhen Shan, a paper cutting artist from Shanxi. His handcrafted sheets of cut paper sell for as low as 1RMB per piece. Yup, it wasn’t a typo. The price starts at 1RMB! When questioned about his low prices on his artwork, he claimed that paper cutting had been a passion to him, and selling it is only a mean to get the days by.
Pass By Bar, one of the most famous residing establishment at Nan Luo Gu Xiang was brought in by Xiao Biar, since 1999. It was opened with a unique concept of combining a bar and a café with a small shop carrying souvenirs bearing the bistro’s logo. I personally liked their postcards, which are made out of recycled paper and printed with artistic designs you might not find anywhere else. The approximately 90 seater bistro serves up a good selection of high quality coffee and alcohol. Whilst chilling out there, don’t forget to check out their scrumptious hutong style pizza with lamb and cheese at 40RMB. The cozy bistro lays out the tone for a relaxing evening, with an idyllic outdoor seating and a laid back indoor experience, decorated in a Tibetan theme. As though that’s not enough for you, check this bit out – they offer free wireless internet for your surfing needs, but the real punch is - their Italian chef was poached from Annie’s, the famed Italian restaurant franchise!
If you ever wonder how the Chinese could withstand spicy dishes such as the one originating from Hunan or Sichuan, try the Ma La Tang for a starter. Boiled in a tasty and spicy soup, your choice of ingredients served on a skewer would be dipped into a special “Ma La” sauce with rich aroma of freshly ground peanuts, garnished with chops of parsley and spring onion.
And if you think you are ready for some real Sichuan food, try the famous Luo Gu Dong Tian (锣 鼓 洞 天) also known as Drum and Gong Fusion Restaurant in English. Serving traditional style Sichuan food in a uniquely designed interior, the mini restaurant is well known for their affordable price tag. Foreigners should try the restaurant’s Sichuan version of stir fried bacon strips with bell pepper at 28RMB per portion. But be warned, it is slightly salty and could get quite spicy. Plain rice would go well with the hot and tender bacon strips.
The hutong also offers a feast for the eye for the discerning shoppers. The lane is intertwined with small shops selling a wide range of products, from handicrafts to clothes and accessories. Woo, a shop with catchy minimalist interior, boasts a range of specially designed hand-woven Sichuan silk. Ladies, be prepared to fall in love all over again with the lovely gradation of colours the designer uses, and the superb quality of the material! Shawls are priced at 30RMB and above. For the man in the family, there are shops such as Pass By Shirts and Plastered 8, uniquely designed for casual and comfort wear.
Plastered 8 T-Shirt was founded 2 years ago by a traveling backpacker Englishman, Dominic Johnson-Hill, who visited Nan Luo Gu Xiang in 1993. Featured in many articles, the shop has been lauded as the “Original Beijing Style” which boasts comfy cotton casual wear, “plastered” on with Chinese logos, fashion, and architecture inspired designs. The shirts designs are “plastered on” by special form of latex which creates a glossy finish. As wonders never cease, his humble shop had been recommended in The New York Times, and had since enjoyed a huge fan base as far off as Japan.
I finally decided to chill out at Café de Margarita. Classically designed in the old British style, the ambience is a top notch. I chose a sofa seat, cozily tucked at the end of a corner. Surrounded with many magazines to browse, wi-fi to complete my surfing experience, and easy listening music flowing in the background with soft yellow lighting, I could sit here all day long chilling out and forget all my worries.
If you prefer an authentic gourmet whipped up in tantalizing spices, check out Mirch Masala, an Indian dining brought to you by Mr. Daya from Delhi. The artistic yet romantic ambience is simply amazing.
Be full of love and ready to kiss if you visit another famous joint at Nan Luo Gu Xiang – Shao Rou Ren (烧 肉 人). This hip barbeque place is ever vibrant with life and love. The owner David Hsu, will take your picture and dish up some free food if you kiss for at least 10 seconds. No worries for non-kisser, though. You could still enjoy the impressive Australian imported beef grilled on charcoal at your table. The beef tenderloin and boneless short rib is a must try at only 40RMB each. And of course, not forgetting the highly recommended Ta’Re, a special marinade of soy sauce, ginger, and a dash of fruit juice.
Another great café to lounge and spend a day relaxing in, is the Three Trees Coffee (三 棵 树). One of the first cafés to open on Nan Luo Gu Xiang, the place is a tranquil paradise. The quaint café offers a comfortable living room style atmosphere for quiet conversation and reading. Many foreigners love the peaceful ambience which is excellently matched with fabulous western delights such as salad, pizza, and sandwiches. Whilst there, don’t be drifted away by the comfort and serenity to the point that you thought you were right at home!
With the Beijing Olympic approaching, Nan Luo Gu Xiang will rev up itself to welcome tourists from all walks of life. As promised by some of the vendors, there will be weekend activities going on and a re-run telecast of the Olympic Games at some of the F&B outlets. So, prep up yourself to spend a day (or two) at one of the hippest traditional hutong in town. Don’t miss out on the fun and happenings! Be sure to tune in for more upcoming details.
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